Basic Hair Care Let's take a look at the basics of caring for the hair. We'll discuss the proper ways to shampoo, condition, and dry the hair. I know that many of you are going to think that this is a completely unnecessary article—it’s not! Common Errors: Using more shampoo than necessary when washing their hair Handling the hair too rough; especially when towel drying Not rinsing the hair well enough after conditioning and shampooing Not thoroughly wetting hair before applying shampoo Using too much or too little conditioner based on hair length Not using an acidic finishing spray or rinse to seal the hair cuticle Using nylon or unnatural bristle hair brushes Using cheap plastic combs than can literally tear strands Using the wrong products based on hair type Clogging the hair pores with heavy products Not paying attention to the care of the scalp (which is considered the “soil”) Overuse of chemicals, such as relaxers and colorants Abuse of hair appliances, such as hot combs, curling irons, blow dryers, etc. Improper diet Shampooing: The first step to healthy hair is cleansing. This means choosing the right shampoo and using the right amount of shampoo. Most shampoo formulas are made for "normal to dry hair" or "normal to oily hair". A good way to determine which of these you need is to take a spray bottle with water and lightly mist your hair when it is dry.
Does the water absorb immediately, or does it bead up on the surface for a moment before being absorbed? If the water absorbs immediately, you should use a shampoo for "normal to dry hair" because it has more moisturizing ingredients. If the water beads up at first, use a shampoo for "normal to oily hair". The spray test is usually performed to determine the hair's porosity, but works here because porous hair (where the water absorbs immediately) tends to be dry, while resistant hair (where the water beads up) tends to accumulate more surface oils.
Once you've chosen your shampoo, you're ready to wash your hair. You need to completely saturate the hair with water. Next, you need to use the right amount of shampoo. Most package directions for shampoo call for a "quarter-sized" (2.5cm circle) amount. These instructions are intended for hair of average length - somewhere between chin and shoulder length. If you have really short hair (shorter than chin length) you should use a little less (a nickel-sized [1.5cm circle] amount). If you have longer hair (length that is past the shoulders) use more (a half-dollar-sized [4cm circle] amount). Rub the shampoo between your palms and apply it to the scalp. Massage the scalp and shampoo until the shampoo forms lather, running your fingers through your hair to distribute the lather evenly then rinse your hair completely (until the water runs clear).
Repeat the shampoo process, and note that the second time around the lather should be much thicker and foamier. This means that the dirt and oils that were initially on the hair have been removed (or dramatically lessened) and that the hair is clean. After a few times of shampooing your hair you'll recognize whether the lather is sufficiently thick to know if you need a second shampooing or not. If you do get a full, rich lather on the first go around, you don't have to repeat the shampooing. Once again, be sure to rinse the hair completely, running your fingers through the hair to help push out the lather and make sure that you get all the shampoo off the scalp as well.
Conditioning: Step two to having healthy hair is conditioning, and again, using the right conditioner and the proper amount are important. If your hair was porous, try using a conditioner high in moisturizers. If it was resistant, you will probably want to go with a lighter formula.
Before applying the conditioner to your freshly shampooed hair, you'll want to squeeze out the excess water from your hair, especially if your hair is long. The best way to do this is simply run your hands over your head and down your neck, pressing gently to force the extra water out of the hair. For very long hair, you can use the above method at the scalp and neck, then gather the hair into one hand and squeeze the remaining length between two fingers and slide them to the ends of the hair.
Once again, follow the directions on the conditioner package to determine how much you need. Use less if your hair is short, and more if it is very long. Apply the conditioner to the palm of your hand and rub your hands together to spread it then apply the conditioner to your hair using a stroking motion. There is no need to apply the conditioner directly to the scalp, just to the hair since working the condition through the hair tends to spread it onto the scalp as well.
Work your fingers through your hair to "comb" it through the hair from the scalp area to the ends. If you have very long hair, you may need to get a little more conditioner to completely cover the ends of the hair.
Allow the conditioner to sit on the hair the length of time directed by the packaging. This is usually one minute for most rinse-through conditioners, though it may be as much as 3 to 5 minutes for some of the more moisture-rich conditioners. When the conditioner has been on for the required length of time, rinse it thoroughly from the hair. Again, while rinsing, run your fingers through your hair to make sure to remove all the residual conditioner, especially at the scalp area where it could result in an oily look once the hair is dried.
It's always important to completely rinse shampoos and conditioners from the hair after using them. Shampoos contain surfactants that can cause the scalp to feel dry and itchy if not fully rinsed away, and conditioners can result in the hair looking flat and limp if not rinsed properly. A good conditioner will have properly moisturized the hair and smoothed the cuticle layer during the time it sits on the hair. You don't need to be able to feel the conditioner residue to have gotten the proper effect.
Drying: Now we come to the step where most people do the most harm to their hair. It's astonishing how brutal some people are when they towel-dry their hair. When the hair is wet, it is most vulnerable to stretching and breakage. To properly dry the hair, you should first squeeze out the excess water as described above (running the hands over the head and neck, and pinching the hair between two fingers to force out the water from the ends of long hair). Next take your towel and lay it over the head and blot the water from the hair by pressing the towel to the scalp and squeezing the hair length between the folds of the towel. You can massage the towel on the scalp area, but use only the fingertips and very small movements (less than ½ an inch [or 1.5cm]). Ideally, you should turban your hair up into the towel and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. While your hair is turbaned, you can dry the rest of your body and do other things, like getting dressed.
This does mean that you'll need to use more than one towel, but the benefit is that your hair will be much easier to style, especially if you have very long hair, which can become knotted and matted when wet if not treated gently. Once the hair has had time for the towel to absorb the water, take down the turban and use a wide-tooth comb, working from the ends of the hair upward to comb out the damp hair until it is smooth. It's always recommended that you use a wide-tooth comb to detangle damp hair. It provides even, low tension to separate tangled strands. Some people have been known to use "pronged" brushes, but unless the prongs of the brush are sufficiently spaced, you end up with the hair being directed in multiple directions at once and it can result in breakage. A comb with wide-set teeth is a much safer choice.
At this point, your hair is ready for styling, and we can cover the common mistakes of the varied styling processes at another time.
Natural hair care is best for beautiful hair. Try these 5 winning steps. 1. Shampooing and Conditioning 2. Finishing Rinse 3. Stimulating Scalp Massage 4. Deep-Conditioning 5. Treatments
Shampooing and conditioning can be done daily if you use a shampoo and conditioner especially formulated for your hair. Be sure to wet the hair thoroughly before shampooing.
After conditioning, use an herbal finishing rinse to remove any remaining residue, restore the hair's pH level, and bring out the hair's natural highlights. A rinse that contains vinegar or lemon is the best.
A stimulating scalp massage feels so good, and it also facilitates blood flow to the scalp which will nourish the roots. Just apply a small amount of scalp oil to the scalp at least 1-2 hours before shampooing (or overnight) and massage vigorously (call us for the proper way to massage scalp brochure)
Deep conditioning should be done at least monthly. Deep Conditioning will help to combat the day-to-day damage that can be done to hair caused by chemicals and heat.
TIDBIT: Hair grows ¼ to 1 inch per month depending on the individual-and that's during the growth phase! So take care of your locks and be patient when growing them out.
Here's To Your Health--Live Long And Prosper! Embellir Corporation 2577 Broad Avenue (Historic Arts District) Memphis TN 38112-2615 901.452.1950
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